As the bus came over the rise, Mary said, “And there on your right is the oldest building in the world.”
I learned of Mary Gibbons six months earlier at The Celt, a great little pub in Dublin. I was sitting next to a astoundingly drunk Irishman who told me he did top secret work for the Saudis and was leaving tomorrow to evacuate some Americans from the Middle East. I, of course, was sworn to secrecy and then desperately tried to escape. Before I shook him though, he told me that the one thing I should do before leaving Ireland was a Newgrange tour with Mary Gibbons. He peaked my interest, and I emailed her on the spot to see if she had openings tomorrow. Alas, she did not, and I had to return home the day after.
I didn’t forget the Irishman or Mary, and prior to my next Irish excursion, I booked a spot on the tour which is how I ended up on the bus, coming over the rise, and seeing the oldest building in the world. I’ve since learned that Mary is indeed a bit of a famous tour guide for Newgrange, and I found out for myself.
Tony and arrived as instructed at 10:10am at the corner of O’Connell Street Upper and Parnell Street. The nice tour bus arrived, Mary checked us in, and the coach driver pulled away. From the moment we were in motion, Mary was entertaining us with stories about the history and present of Ireland. Rather than tell us disconnected facts, she referenced the buildings, rivers, landmarks, and land that we were driving past and explained how it all fit together. She was one of my two most memorable tour guides (the other being at Auschwitz).
The day was planned from 10:10am to 4pm. We were visiting two main sites: Hill of Tara and Newgrange. Our first stop was at Hill of Tara which was the Royal Seat of the king some 5,000 years ago. Today, it is a hill from which it is said that 75% of Ireland is visible. There are circular trenches that are most prominently seen from the air and a standing stone on the top of the hill is where kings were crowned. Below is a 270 degree panoramic and the standing stone.
After 40 minutes at Tara, we reboarded the bus and headed towards Newgrange. Mary continued with her spur-of-the-moment discourse, including a gentle rant about the way that that the government oversees gas tax. We passed Slane Castle, a country estate that the family has maintained by hosting rock concerts on the grounds each summer. U2, Bruce Springsteen, and The Rolling Stones are among the bands that have played there. In June, 2019, it’s Metallica with tickets starting at $100. Can’t wait to see who’s coming next year.
And a short time later, we came up over that rise and found Newgrange. First, we had lunch at the Newgrange Farm and Coffee Shop, a basic restaurant and educational farm across the road from Newgrange. Then, at 1:45 sharp, we assembled at the ticket booth and were escorted to the front of the structure by a guide. After 10 minutes of explanation, she split us into two groups and began the process of getting us inside.
Newgrange is a passage tomb that was built over 6,000 ago, 500 years or so before the pyramids in Egypt. The simplicity of the structure is striking. It’s 76 meters across and 12 meters high, with stone walls and grass dome on top. It blends into the landscape so well that it takes a minute to register that it is actually a structure. A passage tomb has an entrance, and you walk through a narrow passageway about 20 yards until the tomb opens up in a cross shape that can fit about 25 people standing up, right next to each other. As the guide indicated ahead of time, anyone with any claustrophobia should “take their time.”
To preserve the megaliths at the entrance, there are wooden stairways constructed to prevent people from touching the stones. The outer entrance is about 5 feet high and you must “mind your head” for the first 8 steps or so before you can stand up straight again. Then the passageway is constructed of these enormous stones that, in some areas, forced me to turn sideways to get through. In 20 seconds or so, I emerged into the tomb itself. The ceiling is about 15 feet high in the center and you can see how they layered these huge stones to create the tapered roof that was then covered with soil and grass. They did not allow pictures inside the tomb but I did find one online.
The coolest thing happened next. If you look at that previous photo, you can see what is called the roof box directly above the entrance. After entering the passage, that box is not visible but it turns out to be the amazing thing about Newgrange. On the morning of December 21, the winter solstice, the sun rises over the hill to the east of Newgrange. This is the first sunrise of the new year following the longest night of the year, a sign of hope and new beginning. On this particular morning, every year, as the earth spins to the west, the first rays of sunlight spill over that hill, shine through the roof box, and kiss the inner tomb with a narrow beam of light. It lasts 12 minutes and then it’s gone, until next year. The people that designed this tomb had the ability and creativity to welcome the new year’s light into the tomb at this exact moment every year. The guide simulated this by turning off the lights which means there is no light! You can’t see a shadow or anything else. Then a pinpoint of light simulates the sunrise and creates an otherworldly experience inside the tomb. It’s an awe-inspiring experience.
We spent about 10 minutes total in the tomb. There are strict time limits to make sure that the next group can also get in. We emerged and spent another 20 minutes walking around the grounds. When we returned to the guest center, there is a sign up for a lottery. Every year, they pick 20 people to enter the tomb before dawn on December 21 to see the sun shine through. I can’t wait for my name to get picked!
Newgrange is part of 10 day trip to the British Isles (see more here) and a day trip from Dublin (see more here).