The mailboxes in Ljubljana are all begging for something more fulfilling. It looks like #spaceutopian has been here, and it made me smile when I put my postcards in! This is the sixth stop of my six-city trip.
So I have developed this habit of going places with virtually no idea what these places are like or what there is to do, and Ljubljana is no exception. Short of confirming that I could take a bus from Zagreb to Ljubljana and booking an Airbnb the day before, I was completely uninformed. This led to me feeling especially blessed when I saw what an amazing city I had stumbled upon.
Ljubljana is the capital of Slovenia which became an independent country in 1991 when citizens voted for independence from Yugoslavia. I arrived at the bus station and walked 20 minutes to my lovely Airbnb at the base of the bluff upon which the local Castle stands.
The city center is wrapped around the bottom of the looming precipice, and the castle sits prominently above, way above, the entire city. I arrived in the central plaza and crossed the Tromostovje, Triple Bridge, over the Ljubljanica River to the old town. This is, as you might guess, three bridges, but they are all right next to each other in a fan shape. These were built originally as separate foot bridges to avoid bottlenecks in this busy, pedestrian-only section of the city. A few steps beyond the bridge is the view to the left and a main throughfare below the castle. The street surface, as you can see, is beautifully updated and much smoother under the feet than many similar European city centers.
The streets become quieter the farther in you go. By the time I turned towards my destination, the alley was empty and somewhat dark. As I looked up the slope, considering what may lurk in the shadows, a petite young woman darted past me and led the way. I learned quickly that this is how much of the city looks, with enough light at night to navigate and no concerns about safety.
The streets of old town Ljubljana, especially after dark, are so cozy, picturesque, and inviting. These narrow alleys connect larger pedestrian walkways and are lined with cafe seating outside of the endless bars and restaurants. On this chilly, damp evening, outdoor heaters make these areas quite comfortable and there are a surprising number of patrons at the tables (although you can’t see any in this picture). It’s such a fun, remarkable evening to wander through these areas.
The Ljubljanica River is visible through the glass surface of Mesarski (Butcher) Bridge in Ljubljana, which by the way is related to the Slovenian word for love, ljubezen. The thousands of padlocks on the side cables reflect the European tradition of committing to your lover by securing the lock and throwing the key in the river.
The Yugoslavian military had a base in Ljubljana consisting of seven buildings on a three-acre property. Shortly after they left in the early 90s, a local group moved in as squatters and eventually got permission to occupy the space as a progessive cultural arts complex. Metelkova was born They covered the drab barracks with fanciful, bright paintings and created artist studios, galleries, and live music clubs. I visited during the day when it was quiet but they say the place is hopping at night.
I met this sculptor when I visited Metelkova. A small handwritten sign said Open, so I walked through a cluttered hallway and tentatively opened an old door in a dark alcove. And there he was, in a bright room full of his sculptures and in the middle of creating a new one. His studio has hundreds of small sculptures from realistic figures to abstract. He said that he recently put the “Open” sign outside because he never gets any visitors. He was shy but seemed very happy to have some company.
On my third day in Slovenia, I headed out in the morning down one of the main thoroughfares in the old town (left) to start a day trip to the city of Bled, a 75-minute bus ride into Alps territory. It was misty and the clouds hung low but there were glimpses of the snow-covered Alps along the way.
The bus arrived at the downtown bus station in Bled which was a couple blocks from the main attraction – Lake Bled. I had not originally planned to go to Bled. Actually, I had not originally planned much of anything, seriously, but that’s another story. Anyway, Lake Bled is one of those screensaver places – you know, the idyllic scene that fills your computer screen and makes you say, I’ll probably never be there – and I realized that I was too close to miss it. So, here it is…..
Bled is in northwestern Slovenia, a few miles from the Austrian border. The city is nestled in a valley on the edge of the Julian Alps, spreading out from the lake. I had a quick lunch in a cafe overlooking the water and then strolled around the six kilometer trail that encircles the lake.
This was such a peaceful day. The clouds hung low in the 40 degree air, and I was mostly alone during my 90 minute loop. The still water reflected everything, and I could barely walk straight because I couldn’t stop looking at the view.
I stopped for a snack before catching the bus back to Ljubljana. I was in Bled for a total of 4 hours which made for a very pleasant day trip. I had considered spending a night but I’m glad that I didn’t. It may have been more fun if I were traveling with someone but I was very satisfied with a slow saunter around the lake.
I had a great dinner at Julija, a restaurant serving traditional Slovenian food, on my last night in Ljubljana. This is a very memorable city that stands out for me as a favorite. I tend not to return to places that I’ve been but I hope this city is an exception to that! And the next morning, I am catching the train back to Vienna. The six hour trip includes lots of beautiful mountainscape and a transfer in Villach. The train transfers are so simple, often a matter of stepping off the train and walking 30 feet across the platform to get on another train.
