I had been to 48 states, and, obviously, had two left to conquer. Even though North Dakota is only an eight-hour drive from my home, it’s not on the way to anywhere (sorry, North Dakotans) nor have I had a particular reason to go. Despite the endless list of COVID bummers, this was an opportunity to add number forty nine. Fargo, here we come!
After a full day of driving, we crossed I-94 high above the Red River and entered Fargo proper. The Red River makes a wiggly border and beautiful valley between Moorhead, Minnesota and Fargo, flowing north to Winnepeg, Manitoba and emptying, finally, into the Hudson Bay. A couple miles after crossing the river, we pulled into downtown Fargo and checked into the stylish Airbnb on Roberts St. https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/11271653?source_impression_id=p3_1602028732_EpQ3gezX96WHI1WJ
So, if you are anything like me, you might be asking, like, how long did you have to stay in Fargo? I understand, because, honestly, I had pretty low expectations, but, as it turns out, Fargo has some cool stuff going on, even in the midst of the pandemic of a century.
Downtown Fargo is a walkable, contained, fun place, About 4 blocks by 5 blocks is all you get, but it includes this iconic movie theather sign, a bunch of good restaurants and bars, and attractive shops.
After a moment of settling in, it was time to stretch the legs and explore the city center. Fargo is a comfortable, renovated downtown that maintains some amount of Main Street USA while surprising things pop up from nowhere. Roberts Alley, a darn nice alley, skirts behind the Airbnb as well as businesses on Broadway Drive and Roberts St. The bright red mural and extreme cleanliness set this alley apart from your average urban alley.
The Beer and Fish Company offers, you know, beer and fish in a very attractive building. We didn’t make it inside but the playful art on the building contributes to the ambience downtown.
A leisurely 30-minute walk led to dinner at the Boiler Room. This restaurant was in the basement of an old building with a nice patio and inside dining area. The ambience was probably better than the food but it was a comfortable, interesting space.
Over the next couple days, we visited several outstanding cafes and bars. Bernbaums is a delightful Jewish deli that has delicious and somewhat unusual food. This is a must-visit-and-dine place in Fargo. Across the river in Moorhead, a 15 minute walk from downtown Fargo, is Rustica, another phenomenal eatery. We got the last table on the outside patio, and I am still swooning over the curry carrot soup! A couple of fun bars (fun meaning they were open and sparsely populated in a pandemic sort of way) were HoDo Lounge and Mezzaluna. Hodo, in the upscale Hotel Donaldson, is a friendly neighborhood kind of bar that had a couple of great staff working on this particular night. Our server even shared his passion for the play list that included two interesting indie rock artists: One is called Hippocampus and the other, The Brook and The Bluff. You never know what you’ll learn.
The Mezzaluna restaurant and bar has delicious drinks, such as this Art Deco mojito, and a few tables on the sun-bathed sidewalk. I’m not saying it will be sun-bathed when you get there, but you never know.
A block down the street from the Airbnb was one of the cooler coffee shops I have visited. The aptly-named 20 Below Coffee is an attractive mix of modern and cozy. The awesome vibe rings out from the moment you walk in. The staff were so friendly and engaging and the drinks were superb. And to top it off, this family tree of coffee drinks is simply amazing. I admired the artwork and creativity for a long time. Zoom in and see for yourself!
Yes, as I said, I really like 20 Below, so here’s a bonus panoramic shot of the whole place, more or less.
The Red River carves out much of the border between North Dakota and Minnesota, spawned from two converging rivers about 20 miles south in Wahpeton. Both banks are a patchwork of wooded groves and meadows, sloping up 50 yards or more from the river’s edge, with walking and cycling trails winding along the twisty river. This peaceful swath of land is an escapist oasis full of butterflies, swaying prairie grass, and trees between which a hammock should be hung.
And, so after a couple day, we reunited with the car and headed southeast, back to our southern Wisconsin homes.
